One pivotal step I didn’t touch on in the last post was the importance of back priming individual components. Here you can see the panels, panel spline, and the sticking all have been back primed.
I like to do the miters of the sticking as I set it; I use a sponge soaked in primer, dabbing each miter as I go.
Once the sticking has Been set, I wipe off any squeeze-out with a rag. Care at this stage of the work pays dividends in the longevity of the door.
Let’s talk glass. The glazing system works much the same as the panels, splines fit into dados plowed into the stiles, rails, and muntins. The blue tape is double sided neoprene glazing tape; the blue is the backing and is removed when setting the glass. Here I am checking the thickness of the glass with the tape on both sides to determine the dimension of the tongue of the glazing spline.
Fitting the splines.
Let’s run the glazing bead. Here is the bevel cut. If anyone knows a good way to remove those big stupid labels all over my saw, please speak up!
The second Pass gives us this. From here, we simply strip it up.
Fitting the glazing bead.
As with the panel system, back prime, back prime, back prime! Here the bead is all fit and ready for the ends to be primed and set in place. It goes without saying that I always use stainless steel brads to set all components.
I then flip the door and get ready to set the glass. First, the glazing tape is applied to the back of the glazing bead that has been installed. The blue backing gets removed and the glass is then set into place using firm pressure to ensure the proper adhesion of the glass and tape.
Wash, rinse, repeat!
The glazing bead has been fit and back primed. I like apply the glazing tape to the bead to assure adequate space for a bead of caulking around each lite.
Glazing bead Set and Nailed.
Set, primed, and puttied.
Ok. Next post will be hardware, I promise!
